What a pre-replacement roof inspection should cover
A roof inspection before replacement should check four things: what is happening inside the roof space, what you can see from the ground, the condition of the roof surface and its details, and the structure and drainage that the new roof will rely on. Working through a checklist means nothing gets missed and every contractor you talk to quotes against the same picture of your roof.
The lists below are split into the checks you can safely do yourself and the ones that belong to a professional on the roof.
Part 1: Inside the roof space (homeowner check)
Take a torch, wear long sleeves and a mask, and step only on ceiling joists, never between them. On a sunny day, and again after heavy rain if you can, look for:
- [ ] Daylight showing through the roof, especially around screws, laps or tile joins
- [ ] Water stains or tide marks on battens, rafters and the underside of sheets
- [ ] Damp, compressed or discoloured insulation
- [ ] Rust on the underside of metal sheeting
- [ ] Soft, cracked or termite-damaged timber
- [ ] Mould or a persistent musty smell
- [ ] Whether there is any sarking (a reflective foil layer) under the roof
- [ ] Old wiring, solar cabling and pipes that may need moving during work
Note where each issue sits relative to rooms below. It helps link a ceiling stain to the exact point on the roof.
Part 2: From the ground and the gutters (homeowner check)
Walk around the house in daylight with binoculars or a phone on zoom.
- [ ] Sagging ridgelines or roof planes that look wavy
- [ ] Rust streaks, flaking paint or bare spots on sheeting
- [ ] Cracked, slipped or missing tiles, and broken ridge capping
- [ ] Moss, lichen or plants growing on the roof
- [ ] Lifted or loose sheets and flashing edges
- [ ] Gutters that sag, leak at joins or show overflow staining on fascias
- [ ] Downpipes that are blocked, disconnected or rusted through
- [ ] Rotten or flaking fascia and barge boards
During a decent downpour, watch where water goes. Gutters spilling over the front edge often point to undersized gutters or blocked outlets, which the new roof should address. Our page on gutter and downpipe replacement covers that side of the job.
Part 3: On the roof (professional check)
This part should be done by a contractor with fall protection. Ask them to cover:
| Area | What they should check |
|---|---|
| Roofing material | Cracks, porosity, corrosion, coating wear, previous patch repairs |
| Fixings | Loose, rusted or missing screws and nails, worn sealing washers |
| Ridges and hips | Bedding and pointing on tiles, ridge cap condition on metal |
| Flashings | Chimneys, walls, skylights, vents and solar mounts |
| Valleys | Rust, debris build-up, adequate width and fall |
| Penetrations | Pipes, flues and roof vents, plus their seals |
| Battens and tie-downs | Condition and whether they suit current wind requirements |
For tile roofs, the contractor should note whether the tiles themselves are sound and only the pointing is failing, or whether tiles are breaking down across the roof. For metal roofs, they should check cut edges and lap joints, where corrosion usually starts.
Part 4: Structure, compliance and hazards
These items affect scope and safety, and often price:
- Framing condition. Rafters, battens and any sagging that may need packing or replacement.
- Asbestos. Older Brisbane homes may have asbestos cement roofing or eaves. It should be tested before work, and removal above a small area needs a licensed removalist. See our guide to asbestos and roof replacement and check current Workplace Health and Safety Queensland rules.
- Wind rating. The site's wind classification, set by a certifier or engineer, affects batten spacing and fixings.
- Heritage or character overlays. Older houses in suburbs like Paddington or Red Hill may sit in a Brisbane City Council character overlay, which can limit material or colour changes.
- Material change. Switching from tiles to metal, or the reverse, changes roof weight. A certifier can confirm whether approval is needed.
- Solar and services. Panels, aerials and air-conditioning units that must be removed and reinstated.
Timing your inspection
Book the inspection well before you need the new roof. Late winter and early spring are useful windows in Brisbane, because they leave time to compare quotes and schedule work before the storm season builds. If you can, do your own roof space check after a heavy rain as well as on a dry day, since some leaks only show when wind drives rain sideways.
Questions to ask the inspector
A good inspection is also a conversation. While the contractor is on site, ask:
- Which problems are urgent, and which can wait until the replacement?
- Is the damage spread across the roof, or limited to certain faces?
- Will any battens, rafters or fascias need replacing, and how will that be confirmed?
- Does the current gutter and downpipe layout cope with heavy summer rain?
- What would change if I switched roofing material?
Write down the answers next to your checklist so you can compare them with what other contractors tell you.
Turning the checklist into a decision
Once you have the results, sort them into three groups: urgent safety or water entry problems, items a replacement would fix anyway, and minor maintenance. If most problems sit in the first two groups and are spread across the roof, replacement is usually the sensible path. If they cluster in one area, ask about roof repairs first.
Give every contractor the same notes and photos so their quotes are comparable. Our roof replacement cost guide explains how inspection findings flow into price. We can arrange inspections with the contractors we work with; we ask them to hold the licences and insurance the job needs, so ask to see them before work starts.
General information for Brisbane homeowners, written for planning, not a substitute for someone inspecting your roof. Rules and products change; confirm details with Brisbane City Council, the QBCC or the agency named before acting.